Travelogger

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Epic Train Journeys: Trans Siberian Express


Of all the means of transport, the most romantic to me by far is the train (and the most unromantic being airplane). Trains evoke old-fashioned mystery (think Murder on the Orient Express), and the chance to see some of the world’s most exotic terrain from the comfort of your carriage.

The Trans-Siberian railway is one of the famous of all, boasting the longest rail line in the world – of about 10,000 kilometers from Europe (Russia) to Asia (China or Japan).

I hadn’t realized that there is no such thing as the Trans-Siberian-Express – and instead it is a whole network of trains servicing the massive expanse of Russia, through Siberia and even direct to China and Mongolia.

The Russian trains …

The Pilgrimage Village Hotel, Hue


After feeling harassed in Hoi An (too many “lonley-planeters” and bad tailors), arriving at the tranquil Pilgrimage Village in Hue was a welcome relief. The drive as pleasant as well, and was a wonderful way to see the beautiful scenery of central Vietnam. We passed by a marble factory too, and bought quite a large selection ofexquisite handicrafts . Gorgeous boxes, a Buddha tea pot and candle holders which showed the 4 seasons, all carved from sandstone (or was it soapstone?).

Walking through the gates of the Pilgrimage village, and you’ll find wooden walkways connecting to “houses” where different handicrafts were being made - there was a wooden carver, a conical hat weaver, textile weaver etc etc. Surprisingly, …

Cooking Class In Vietnam


Keen to try my hand at Vietnamese cuisine, I readily joined the cooking class offered at our hotel in Hue, the Pilgrimage Village, which included a trip to the local market.

Early the next day I was met at the lobby by Long (guest relations officer and our private concierge) and Trang, the very sweet young chef who was also to be my instructor.

We made our way to the Hue central market, a cornucopia of colours, smells and a sea of conical hats. Trang quickly ushered me through to the fish, meat and vegetable sections, expertly purchasing the rudiments of my lunch. On our way out we even met Long’s pretty …

Hue: Vietnam’s Imperial City


When my husband and I travelled to Vietnam earlier this year, we were surprised to find that the country had its own version of the Forbidden City. Unlike Beijing’s, which is crawling with tour groups, soldiers and simply too many people, the Forbidden City in Hue was charmingly untouched.

Left to explore on our own, we marvelled at the lack of tourists and lack of spots where visitors were “not allowed”. In fact, we found an old library or reading house in the compound made out of the most beautiful tiles and coloured glass, and simply sat there for while, feeling like we were part of the Imperial court. Yes, much of it was in ruins, but we …

London Terror Alerts Haven’t Stopped Brit Travellers


Is the world becoming immune to terror alerts? Despite last week’s “high terror” alert at UK and US airports following a brewing London terror plot, a poll showed that 81% of British travellers would not make a change in their travel plans.

This is good news for the airline industry, despite the story a few days ago about how some people refused to board a Monarch air flight from Manchester when they heard some fellow passengers speaking in Arabic. Then more paranoia on a transatlantic flight to New York, when a British Airways flight turned right around when someone heard a moble phone ring.

The new security measures imposed by the British government are angering not …

America’s Coffee Towns. Part 2


In the meantime, Starbucks under Schultz mutated into an operation of 2,000-plus stores. To San Franciscans, the coffee-as-image attitude is evidence that Seattleites aren’t as discriminating about good coffee as they are.
In San Francisco proper, Starbucks has 67 stores to Peet’s 10 and local chain Martha & Brothers’ five, and all 67 seem to be thriving.
So what does the way Seattle obsesses about good coffee and the way the Bay Area takes it for granted say about those two places?

To quote Baldwin: “It’s a question of experience and maturity, if you put it into human terms, the younger athlete, let’s say, is much more aggressive about asserting himself because he has something to prove. …

America’s Coffee Towns. Part 1



Seattle, San Francisco. These two jewels of U.S Pacific Coast have much in common: a reputation as the coffee lover’s Nirvana. So who is the real pro?
Though the cities’ caffeine societies are distinct, their pasts are intertwined. San Francisco has a tradition of good coffee that goes back at least as far as the 1899 opening of Freed, Teller & Freed, the oldest specialty bean roaster west of New York.

Peet was Dutchman Alfred Peet’s modest little roastery, opened in 1966 on Walnut and Vine in Berkeley, that became the real epicenter of the gourmet coffee boom that has engulfed the Bay Area, Seattle, and, mercifully, many former Maxwell House strongholds beyond.

It may be purely coincidental that …

Getting Sick on Holiday - Be Prepared!


Theres not much worse that getting sick on holiday - whats worse than having to miss out on a day at the beach or that lovely new museum and instead go trouping around to find a decent pharmacy or unfamiliar (hopefully English speaking) local clinic?

The alarming fact is that 1 in 2 travelers get sick on holiday, and over 30% regret not taking along a medical kit with them!

On a recent trip to Singapore, my 80-something father-in-law who was travelling with us woke up one morning to a hideous rash which kept him scratching (and sleepless) and all night. Miserable and sore, he did NOT pack a medical kit (despite his age- which is just plain …

Fort Galle: Where To Stay


One of the nicest things about Galle is that everyone can get a real taste of this special fort (and feeling like one’s gone back in time) with the large choice of accomodation to suit all needs. Here are my picks:

Families, Groups of Friends and Those Seeking Privacy

Roomy and well-stocked ( books, stereos, outdoor toys etc..), you can find many lovely villas within the Fort itself, in the nearby countryside or on the beach. Staff is always included, and most have pools - and its a wonderful way to feel like a local by shopping at the markets to discover the spices, teas and fresh seafood of the area.

Emma Villa - 3 beds, in the Fort, …

Fort Galle: South Asia’s Gem


galle

Galle Fort is often called the gem of South Asia, and after a 2-week holiday there, I cannot agree more. Upon entering the fort’s walls, one is transported to another world - one that existed centuries ago. Old merchants villas line the streets where a quiet street-life prevails and just recently, a handful of “boutique hotels” and specialty shops have sprouted around, all keeping in line with the romantic architecture of old asia.

We rented the most charming “Emma Villa” through the Galle Fort Hotel, and it came with two very sweet houseboys, Sanjay and Nissanka as well as a nanny Harmony (who we later discovered was actually called Ramani) who although didn’t speak a word …